ERWIN KRAUS

The climb on the Rocks of Suesca had its beginning with the pioneer of climbing and mountaineering in Colombia, Mr. Erwin Kraus, who before 1938, before leaving for the Huila mountain to make his first ascent, made three training climbs in company of his companions of roped Enrique Drees and Heriberto Hublitz. Apparently "Black Book". The first open route in Suesca.

HISTORY OF THE CLIMBING PARK "ROCAS DE SUESCA"

The climb on the Rocks of Suesca had its beginning with the pioneer of climbing and mountaineering in Colombia, Mr. Erwin Kraus, who before 1938 before leaving for the Huila mountain to make his first ascent, made three training climbs in company of his companions of roped Enrique Drees and Heriberto Hublitz. Apparently "Black Book". The first open route in Suesca.

Years later in the decade of the 70s, the young Gonzalo Ospina and Alberto Castro in the sector called Sindamanoy on the way to Suesca, made the first attempts at rock climbing, knowing then the rocks of Suesca and thus began the practice of climbing to this era.

In 1976, through Humbert Frank, Cristóbal Szafransky was met and was offered courses in mountaineering in all its forms (rock climbing, ice and high mountain). It began by climbing cracks with rigid boots, rudimentary manufacturing equipment (stone hollows, wooden blocks, knots, railroad nails) unclassified ropes, steel carabiners and other elements that could create the imagination; team that Ospina and Castro also used and developed on their own.
 

In 1977 the young Felipe Errazuris, after a trip abroad, introduced to Colombia the first set of empotradores (hexentricos and stoppers) and the first foot of cat EB brand. He was the one who opened the first route of classification 5.8 that I call PUÑOS and that with DREAMS OF A SEDUCTOR were the routes of greater difficulty until then.


Towards 1979 the Rocks of Suesca began to be a little more frequented and they began to dictate more courses to give way to new climbers who with audacity and patience began to open more routes in the rocks to give birth to the climbing PARK.


Thanks to this boom, several climbing clubs were created, such as Club el Escalador. The equipment was already brought by order for this time and the homemade ones were disappearing. It was in 1980 that one of these new climbers came to the book called Escaladas in Yosemite that nourished the desire and anxiety to expand the horizons and thanks to Marcelo Arbelaes who fulfilled that dream, it was possible to bring more experience to the opening of more routes in the "PARQUE" and knowledge to get to develop projects such as the great walls of the Sierra Nevada del Cocuy.


In 1984 the climbing guide Daniel Anquer of Swiss nationality demonstrated the potential of the rocks of Suesca for outdoor climbing and opened the first sports route called NUEVA ERA. Likewise many routes that were initially opened in artificial were climbed in free and both genres of climbing; sports and adventure increased in various degrees of difficulty. The use of fixed protections (BOLTS) began.


At the beginning of the 90's the sport climbing took a big boom with the discovery of high level plates in the Valley of the Falcons. It was as well as climbers like Aldo Brando and Cristobal Von Rothkirch began with the work of protecting some routes that are currently scaled in that place. Later Juan Carlos González, Roberto Ariano and Fernando Gonzalez-Rubio continued to open routes there. After the continuous advance with the visit of many climbers from Venezuela who came to Suesca to perform all their practices in fissure. In their wake, they opened routes and left the doors open for later departures of Colombians who returned with a desire to start climbing overhangs.
 

Then with the arrival of the artificial wall championships, there was an exchange with the French Mountain and Climbing Federation where for three consecutive years came people like Guilles Bernigolle, Frank Scherrer and Pierre Grange, who gave training courses for climbers and created the possibility of climbing the first 5.13 of Colombia HI TEC.
 

Fuente: Escaladas en Suesca y El Valle de Los Halcones, Primera Edición - Grace Andrea Montoya, Andres Bonilla, 1998

© Rock Climbing Suesca & Green Languages Colombia

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Vereda Cacigazgo, entrada a las rocas de Suesca, esquina. Suesca Cundinamarca, Colombia. Zip code 951040
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